Iron Orchid Designs Brick texture roller – retired

Beschrijving

Iron Orchid Designs Brick texture roller.
IOD Brick Roller Basics
IOD Brick roller basics- This is covering the most basic technique for using the IOD brick roller with all purpose joint compound. There are many techniques and looks, and materials we will be using for upcoming content, but to get started, here is a basic instructional doc. This doc does not include the finishing, or even sealing of the brick textured wall. Raw joint compound must be sealed or otherwise painted once completely dried.
1. All purpose joint compound, enough to go on about ¼” thick for the project area
2. Large trowel or spackle knife
3. 5 gallon bucket with some dip water
4. Appropriate supplies if wall needs prep for adhesion
5. Optional: means for leveling-laser level, chalk line
6. IOD Brick roller
7. Thick painters tape
Surface prep for walls
Make certain you have a surface that the joint compound will bond appropriately to. In some cases you may need to use a primer that will accommodate adhesion. For example if you have a glossy painted surface, you will likely need to address that for better bonding (this would be the case even if you were painting). Consult the notes on the Joint compound packaging.
Instructions:
On properly prepared wall-
1. Using the thick painters tape, tape off adjacent areas to protect it from the joint compound.
2. Apply a coat of all purpose joint compound to your wall. The thickness target we like is about ¼”, however you should play with your test area, because the thickness of this coat will affect the outcome look, and you may like an even thicker coat.
3. Allow to “set up” but not dry. The amount of time this takes will vary depending on thickness, joint compound, temperature and humidity. Our testing determined that you have a long window when applying a thick coat. We had good results from as little as one hour, but even better workability at 3 or more hours.
4. Establish level- If using a laser level, get it set to use as a guide, approximately one roller height down from the ceiling line. If there are level issues with the ceiling line, you can mitigate that with the level.
5. If you are eyeballing it, then move to the next step. If you are using a string and measure method, establish a guide line now.
6. Position your ladder so that you can comfortably reach the side you are starting from.
7. Dip your roller into your bucket of water (this enhances the ‘release’ between roller and joint compound). Pay attention to your pull, and not how long it is before the impression starts to get sticky. I personally don’t fret too much about this, because the areas that are a little more texture from roller stick, add to the look. However, you can dip and swirl more often and do shorter pulls in between dips if you want to. I tend to do as long as my arm reaches before dipping.
8. Keeping your level in mind, Position your roller so that one of the vertical grout lines is aligned with the edge of your wall. If you have an outside corner, as well as an inside corner, start on the outside corner and give that the priority. If you only have inside corners, the roller will leave a small gap, so allow for an estimation of alignment between the vertical grout line and the inside corner.
9. Slowly press the wet roller into the joint compound, and slowly roll it horizontally from the beginning point towards the ending point. You will likely have to pause to move your ladder, so end your pull so that it ends on a vertical grout line. That way it is easy to pick it back up without messing up your brick lengths, and ultimately your pattern.
10. Move ladder to continue. Dip your roller, and swish it around to loosen any joint compound that has stuck to it. Begin the next pull by lining up the vertical groutline and continuing on.
11. Repeat the process.
12. After you complete your first row, step back and check your level. If it’s off level, smooth it over and redo it. If it’s good to go, begin your next row of bricks. It’s important to get your first row level, because you are setting for the rest of the rows. On some rows you may choose to compensate by fudging on the next row rather than redoing, and that works if its not too far off level.
13. If using a laser level, you can move it downard a rollers length so that it is just below your next row.
14. For your second and subsequent rows, begin at the same end of wall you started at. You want to pay attention to the grout alignment. Align that vertical grout line with the vertical grout line that is two bricks up (because the roller lays in two brick rows at a time and is staggered). Pay attention, it’s easy to miss because of the stagger. For the horizontal grout line, you want to put it right over the lowest horizontal grout line above it, and stay in that “track”.
15. Repeat steps 9 and 10 above, remembering to spot your progress for level, and to dip and swish your roller each time you step down from your ladder, or away from your work.
16. Allow to thoroughly dry before moving on to prime/paint, seal or do other finishes. This can take a couple of days or more depending on conditions.
Notes:
1. The roller will leave a gap at inside corners. If desired you can use your finger or a paint brush or other tool to swipe some grout lines. You can also leave it be, and it won’t likely be noticeable.
2. When assessing your wall, or the area you want to do your brick in, (if it’s a portion of a wall), you will want to work in full rows. Do not start a new row until you have

2. Apply a coat of all purpose joint compound to your wall. The thickness target we like is about ¼”, however you should play with your test area, because the thickness of this coat will affect the outcome look, and you may like an even thicker coat.
3. Allow to “set up” but not dry. The amount of time this takes will vary depending on thickness, joint compound, temperature and humidity. Our testing determined that you have a long window when applying a thick coat. We had good results from as little as one hour, but even better workability at 3 or more hours.
4. Establish level- If using a laser level, get it set to use as a guide, approximately one roller height down from the ceiling line. If there are level issues with the ceiling line, you can mitigate that with the level.
5. If you are eyeballing it, then move to the next step. If you are using a string and measure method, establish a guide line now.
6. Position your ladder so that you can comfortably reach the side you are starting from.
7. Dip your roller into your bucket of water (this enhances the ‘release’ between roller and joint compound). Pay attention to your pull, and not how long it is before the impression starts to get sticky. I personally don’t fret too much about this, because the areas that are a little more texture from roller stick, add to the look. However, you can dip and swirl more often and do shorter pulls in between dips if you want to. I tend to do as long as my arm reaches before dipping.
8. Keeping your level in mind, Position your roller so that one of the vertical grout lines is aligned with the edge of your wall. If you have an outside corner, as well as an inside corner, start on the outside corner and give that the priority. If you only have inside corners, the roller will leave a small gap, so allow for an estimation of alignment between the vertical grout line and the inside corner.
9. Slowly press the wet roller into the joint compound, and slowly roll it horizontally from the beginning point towards the ending point. You will likely have to pause to move your ladder, so end your pull so that it ends on a vertical grout line. That way it is easy to pick it back up without messing up your brick lengths, and ultimately your pattern.
10. Move ladder to continue. Dip your roller, and swish it around to loosen any joint compound that has stuck to it. Begin the next pull by lining up the vertical groutline and continuing on.
11. Repeat the process.
12. After you complete your first row, step back and check your level. If it’s off level, smooth it over and redo it. If it’s good to go, begin your next row of bricks. It’s important to get your first row level, because you are setting for the rest of the rows. On some rows you may choose to compensate by fudging on the next row rather than redoing, and that works if its not too far off level.
13. If using a laser level, you can move it downard a rollers length so that it is just below your next row.
14. For your second and subsequent rows, begin at the same end of wall you started at. You want to pay attention to the grout alignment. Align that vertical grout line with the vertical grout line that is two bricks up (because the roller lays in two brick rows at a time and is staggered). Pay attention, it’s easy to miss because of the stagger. For the horizontal grout line, you want to put it right over the lowest horizontal grout line above it, and stay in that “track”.
15. Repeat steps 9 and 10 above, remembering to spot your progress for level, and to dip and swish your roller each time you step down from your ladder, or away from your work.
16. Allow to thoroughly dry before moving on to prime/paint, seal or do other finishes. This can take a couple of days or more depending on conditions.
Notes:
1. The roller will leave a gap at inside corners. If desired you can use your finger or a paint brush or other tool to swipe some grout lines. You can also leave it be, and it won’t likely be noticeable.
2. When assessing your wall, or the area you want to do your brick in, (if it’s a portion of a wall), you will want to work in full rows. Do not start a new row until you have completed the row above it, end to end. This helps to keep your work level, and bricks properly sized.
3. If you get a little off track, it is forgiving, you can reroll it, or just compensate in subsequent rows.
4. Raw joint compound needs to be sealed properly. This instruction set covers only the basics of applying your brick pattern. There are a variety of different finishes and techniques from here, and IOD will be sharing those in our content. However, if you plan on painting your brick a solid color, we recommend using a product made for sealing joint compound, such as a primer, or a self priming paint (Please refer to paint manufacturer’s instructions).
5. Just like all materials, different brands of joint compound will have it’s own characteristics. It is helpful to do a test board.
6. Cracking is normal, and is mitigated by allowing a slow natural dry. Increasing heat or fan can cause more cracking. We appreciate the distressed look of a little cracking, but it’s always an option to simply backfill if you dont’ like them.
7. Because of the long set time of the flat coat, you can work in large areas without worrying about it drying before you get your roller on it. However, if you do a test board, you’ll be able to better gauge that.